Not even Jil Sander knows the secret to buying clothes from her Uniqlo Hit collaboration

In our series My Monday morning, self-motivated people say WSJ. how they start off the week.

When German designer Jil Sander and Uniqlo revived their collaborative J + collection last November, most of the pieces sold out almost immediately. Things like slim puffer coats with collars have stood up on eBay,

with some tokens adding hundreds of dollars to the $ 150 to $ 250 retail price. The significant frenzy was in many ways tantamount to a pandemic of the long lines stretching down the block from a store. Soho at Uniqlo for the first time Sander partnered with the brand in 2009.

On March 25, +J returns with spring / summer offers, designed in its signature style. Sander, 77, has contracted the pandemic at her home in Hamburg, Germany, gardening, practicing yoga and working with the Japanese-based team at Uniqlo over video calls.

The new collection includes jeans for men and women made with Japanese selvedge denim – a product of old-fashioned knitwear that makes a more dense material and is finished with a unique edge. Other pieces include silk-cotton cardigans, tapered pants and oversize parkas. Pops of lavender and blue Yves Klein blend with the virtually neutral color palette. “What I wanted to do was really essential, basic clothing where you say, Everything I see, I can use, ”Said Sander. Since the first collaboration + J, her vision has been that it is for everyone. “If you don’t have that much money, you can buy one or two [pieces]. If you have a little more, you can even buy a small wardrobe. ”

German fashion designer Jil Sander, pictured in her Hamburg office, 1983.


Photo:

dpa photo alliance / Alamy Stock Photo

Sander was born in Wesselburen, Germany, and worked in fashion journalism before opening her own store in Hamburg in the late 1960s, where she sold a variety of other label designs in addition to those. her own. She launched her first collection in 1973, becoming famous for simple yet luxurious workwear and being one of the leading designers who influenced minimalism in the 1990s. In 1999, she sold a 75 percent stake in her company to Prada Group and retired a few months later, returning both in 2003 and again in 2012, after Prada sold to the Japanese company Onward Holdings. Earlier this month, Onward Holdings sold the brand to Italian fashion group OTB, which also owns Marni and Maison Margiela. Here, Sander talks to WSJ. about the sale to OTB, as well as her morning routines, favorite breakfast and promotion for +J.

What time do you wake up on Monday, and what do you do first?

I wake up early, between 6 and 7 in the morning The first thing I do is open the windows and go through my yoga exercises.

What will you eat for breakfast until last week started right?

I start the day with porridge, prepared with linseed oil and linseed oil, honey and fresh fruit. In addition, I drink French coffee by weight and read the daily paper. I keep regular hours for meals and eat lots of vegetables for lunch.

Are you taking vitamins?

Sometimes I take minerals, but I am very sensitive to added vitamins. But I am very healthy, I eat very light, lots of vegetables. I like walking, I like to do yoga, Pilates sometimes, gyrotonic [a form of full-body exercises that incorporates yoga, dance and gymnastics]. I discovered this later in life, maybe after turning 50, I had a little fun. I also love nature. I love gardening.

Sander Garden.


Photo:

Courtesy of Jil Sander

How has your work and life changed during the pandemic?

For the first time since I went into business I stayed in my home [in] Hamburg for nearly a year. Work on + J was intense and was not stopped by weekend trips to the country. Developing the collection was a challenge. We communicated with Uniqlo in Tokyo only through digital media. I had worked with the Japanese + J team before, so we knew each other, and that helped a lot. We got used to video conferencing, but they can’t replace eye-to-eye meetings.

Is there a secret to being able to grab the new + J collection?

Patience! It was not easy in winter, it was sold all over the world…. We had talked to people [at Uniqlo] which brought out the monks. I’m so glad it went so well.

What do you think of the wonder of eBay resale?

We already know this, from 10 years ago. I think it’s a money story too. + J always sold out very quickly. It’s fun to have such a high [demand]. Namely [during] the coronavirus, Uniqlo built a very beautiful shop next to our city hall in Hamburg. Hamburg is a very British, very nice city, and we have a really good place there. We’ll see the excitement, and I’m happy for it. I feel like it’s a little present.

View from UNIQLO + J collection in spring / summer.


Photo:

Courtesy of UNIQLO

With your name brand sold to OTB last week, I was wondering if you would pay attention to the news around it and the collections?

I thought you would ask me that. This is a very difficult question for me. I spent my whole life putting my heart into it [the brand]. I hope this is a great solution that will help the brand in the future. When the coronavirus is over, we will all be excited about new things.

What was the inspiration for the new + J collection?

Silent hope and desire for lightness. Humans are likely to be able to control and learn from the pandemic. We are already feeling the positive trends of this development. There is a new mindset towards each other. Now we need new energy to deal with the future. The + J collection supports the dignity of the individual, focusing on serene subconscious.

View from UNIQLO + J collection in spring / summer.


Photo:

Courtesy of UNIQLO

What piece of advice did you receive that guided you?

My main belief is that we need to stay positive. I have this vision for my mother, who has never lost her openness to the world. She would say, “The dog won’t bite me, if I believe it doesn’t.” She was usually right. But I also believe you have to make mistakes. Just avoid making the same mistake twice.

This interview was edited and collated for clarity.

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