Fashion weeks have changed dramatically in the last 14 months. Working as a journalist has meant that I have seen the scene from all angles, especially behind the scenes. It’s always been my favorite point: one that’s messy and creative and a little awful. But now it’s different. Displays are digitized and much of that magic – the chaos and the crowd – is lost a bit. With Haute Couture week just over, I’ve been thinking about it and the people involved. The industry keeps waiting for things to normalize, to come back bigger and better than ever. I’m waiting too, but I’m also worried that the pandemic is taking away the creative grandeur of fashion weeks… the beauty element in particular, since we’ve been chewed most of the time and that complex hairstyles don’t feel as relevant on screen as it does in the flesh.
Seeing these beauties looking back on stage (and the work that goes into them) I hope we don’t miss out on the scene altogether. The glamor and creative power. So here ‘s a little love letter to some of the bold and beautiful looks of this couture week and the myths behind them … I hope they won’t be the last one.
Dior
Peter Philips, the Creative and Image Director at Christian Dior Makeup, has always been a favorite of mine. He’s talented, kind, and has a positive approach to beauty that feels right for the times. His work at various Dior aerodrome shows is always a perfect showcase of creative innovation, SS21 Haute Couture or different. This seasonal look was minimal and classic – velvet skin and a touch of gold on the eye, all inspired by Maria Churi Grazia and her respect for all things superstitious. The detail of the maker is small but apparently, a good addition to the grandeur of the outfit.
Fendi
Another masterpiece of Peter Philips, but this time of the slick, glossy, ethereal mix. Over at Fendi, models look like celestial bodies, all lit from skin and other mobile interiors. The hair was also amazing. The work of Sam McKnight (the man who used to tend to use Princess Diana’s blond crop) used decorative glass combs in any way for a scene that was “models caught in a thunderstorm in the garden”.
Giambattista Valli
Giambattista Valli is always amazing, especially when it comes to hair as high as the heavens. Odile Gilbert created a scene that was beyond comprehension: a flowing half full of delicate flowers and doll-sized bows. The larger the bouffant, the closer to God…
Valentino
Valentino embraces all that is really great about couture beauty. Artifice, audacity, and everything over the top. Like previous seasons, Dame Pat McGrath painted a few faces in full, opaque gold glitter. Other models had just smoked on the temple, or all over the smoke – still editorial but tame in comparison. Guido Palau also had hair that was very capable – highlighting a particular style and texture. All in all, it was amazing; a magical display of creativity and couture.
