PARIS, FRANCE – In Hedi Slimane’s AW21 men’s show for Celine, called “Teen Knight Poem,” he threw … [+]
Photo credit: Celine
Hedi Slimane has mastered his famous “Hedi look”, and for all those who follow the beauty of Slimane’s design, we all know what this means. Celine’s runway shows are mostly the same in style with Slimane’s love affair with the 1970s and 80s of flared pants, detailed cuts, slim shapes, greasy coats, and pussy bow shirts. But in his AW21 men’s show, he got a name “A Teenage Knight’s Poem,” he threw a small sartorial curved ball where we had to squint to see the 70s ‘but he must have seen hints of the 80s and many of the 90s’ in a youthful appearance.
Slimane and his team have created an appearance that represents survival, rebirth where young people renew a new identity. Filmed at the Château de Chambord there was something regal about the setting and the pieces, like a medieval castle and squires responding to chivalry. Slimane has created a youth collection with armed silhouettes, of male tailoring that is so reminiscent of modern British romance and 16th romance of an era.
As knights marched through the cities of ancient Europe, the models marched through the Château in this sense of “nouveau romanique,” where 90s and a cold wave with goth accents meet adolescence. Looking Layering, leather jackets with animal print fur and under-shirt were paired with denim bomber jackets inside.
According to the House the color palette is regal and resembles a French court. “The colors are black and tan, and gold and silver in 16th a court of law and a ceremonial suit, especially on the last scene, performed by sixty weavers and requiring 1,300 hours of work. ”
We’ve seen capes on Celine’s ready-made runways before, but was that a denim cape? Slimane took us there and gave Tudor England an elegant nod with frilly white shirt collars.
The versatile artist that he is, Slimane gave the show a full circle by directing and styling the look of his designs. True to its composition, he chose a lyrical song named, Slip time, that artist created The Loom and co-created Slimane with writers George Barnett and Jack Barnett. Slimane also selected seven artists to take part in the “Teen Knight Poem” form, including Thomas Sauter, Hendrick Hegray, Dan Wilson, Gene Beery, Olivia Chapman, Althea James and Cambria Guevara.