As soon as Jake Cohen picks up the phone, you hear the enthusiasm in his voice. He is excited to talk about his rise to prominence as an open Jew in the culinary world.
Cohen, a graduate of the American Institute of Warfare (CIA), is currently one of the most viral chefs in America. His first cookbook, Jew-ish, is making waves in the Jewish and secular culinary world, inspiring people to adhere to their faith in any way they associate with it.
New York’s culinary skills are showcased daily on his social media accounts, where he hosts weekly live cooking demonstrations. It has grown so much that it has expanded on Good Morning America, the Today Show and many more.
But Cohen never thought of publishing a book until he and his husband, Alex Shapiro, started trying different foods to eat on Shabbat. Each week, they combined the two cultures – Ashkenazi and Persian / Iraqi – and ended up with a mix of stocking-removing ingredients.
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Where did your interest in Jewish cooking start?
“Like so many people, it was a heavy thing for me long before I went into food professionally. It was something that, as a young adult, I realized was a big factor in the way I eat, cook, entertain and so much of it was based on Jewish values and tradition. . I started diving a little deeper and found passion. “
How did you decide you wanted to become a professional chef?
“For me, having dinner parties was something that started in high school. I fell in love with the hospitality, being a binder and a community builder. I was fascinated by it and it was the only option. I applied to the American War Institute – without backing – and that was what I was going to do. “
Why now is the perfect time for a Jewish cookbook? What made you want to put this together?
“There are many factors. When you look at writing a book, so many people work hard to get this benefit. It is a real honor to write a book and to put resources behind it. Twelve dozen great recipes. There are some great recipe developers around. I post recipes all the time on the internet, on social media and with various food publications. They are all great and come out delicious. I think a book of great recipes is okay and it’s a baseline of what a cookbook needs to be. But in the age of digital media where people are questioning why people are still buying books, it is because of the stories, the narratives, the voice and the way in which you can telling someone’s story and creativity. I was starting to follow that and, when I got the chance to write a book, there was more of it, ‘What story am I going to tell? I am Jewish and I am gay. ‘Gay people don’t cook differently from others. But, Judaism, with the way it affected my relationship, being like Ashkenazi marrying a Persian Iraqi, all of this had such a huge impact on how I eat, cook, entertain and how that I become a guest when I get an invitation over someone ‘s house. All of these things are more or less rooted in my Jewish identity. “
How did you include the wide variety of Jewish food in this book?
“It started with Shabbat. My husband and I wanted to explore what that was for us as a young couple – how we were going to build communities to connect with Judaism. We were discovering all these things at the same time as we started studying Jewish food. Our definitions of Jewish food are completely different. When we met, he had never had a babka before, and I had never had a kubbeh. We used Shabbat as this dish to not only build community, but a foundation for cooking these dishes I grew up eating and never made my own. In New York, you can find matzah ball soup anywhere, but the number of people who can make it from scratch is not so high. I started making a lot of dishes that my husband grew up with. “
Any Israeli food in the book?
“Well, what is Israeli food? That’s a completely different conversation. When you think of Iraqi food, something like sabbatical became part of Israeli culture. Israeli food is a complete mix of food throughout the diaspora and meets at the levant. For me, a lot of the Mizrahi dishes, inspired by my husband’s family, come in handy. I am inspired by the many other ingredients and flavors that have been combined with the flavors of Israel. ”
How does social media help you grow your brand?
“Everyone wants a ‘get rich quick’ scheme, like losing 20 pounds in a week. It’s no secret. I am someone who is from a media background, working for various publications. There was always a gatekeeper with someone saying what is appropriate or mobile and what is not important enough to be covered. Social media is the only place throughout my entire career where I have free space and can do what I want in my voice. This book is a good example of that because I didn’t budge with my publisher on anything that didn’t go with my perspective. “
You’ve worked for some of the biggest names in food media (Saveur Magazine, Time Out New York and The Feedfeed). How did you get your foot in the door?
“I worked at ABC Kitchen in New York City and then, I wanted to switch to media. It’s a faulty business and I’m glad I’m no longer part of it. I took an unpaid internship for a few months and dug my way up. I put everything in there. I was carrying food around town and got a hernia from doing it. I had to carry all the groceries for this kitchen. It was non-stop. I took no opportunity for byline and recipes. At the same time, I was growing my social media because I knew how important it would be. It was this great business card. People like what I sell and I am lucky about that. I’m not looking to grow into a million fans and the whole world loves me. I need a group of people who are involved in the way I cook and how I deliver Judaism. I prefer to have a moderate, enthusiastic audience of millions of fans who feel warm about me. “
Have you heard about the prospective Galilee Wars Institute at the U.S. Jewish National Fund? GCI with JNF-USA will be located in northern Israel. Realizing that northern Israel is a melting pot of so many cultures and ethnicities, what would you choose to cook if you were invited to run a class for students of the Institute?
“One of the things I am depressed about is the way intersections over the Ashkenazi and Mizrahi communities. One of my favorites is a cup of tzimmes, which is old-school Ashkenazi with carrots, prunes and cinnamon. You can find the same ingredients and flavors in Persian stew using bacharat. We can play around and mix things together. ”
We are just days away from Easter. What is your favorite Passover recipe to make?
“It’s always a brisket because he’s the star of the show.” But for me personally, it is a matzah ball soup because it is my comfort food, Easter or not. “
What makes matzah ball soup stand out to you?
“It’s nostalgia.” It’s funny because I’ve done so much Instagram life with chefs to celebrities like Rachel Bloom and Katie Couric. Soup is the one thing everyone loves. Soup is a food and it is this historical thing. There’s a real feeling about refilling and nourishing from soup thanks to the way we were raised. “
You even made your own Haggadah that I saw.
“It was something when I was writing the book as a pre-order benefit. I wanted to provide additional recipes. In the book, I have a real breakdown about Shabbat, the techniques I use and how to make it accessible to all. It was my gateway to a deeper connection to Judaism, and I hope it will be the same for many others. I wanted to do the same for Passover. Easter is so important and people just go through the vendor’s moves, but that could be a lot more. You can have conversations with your loved ones about systems of discrimination and the value of freedom. We have all these beautiful symbols on the table, and there are ways you can make them fresh and new. “
What advice do you have for new chefs who want to make their mark in the food world?
“Tell your own story. Be real and be yourself. Don’t be the way people expect them to be. That can be on both sides. People may want you more Jewish or less Jewish. At the end of the day, none of that matters. You need to be assertive and transparent. “