Han Chong was unable to stage his usual show at New York Fashion Week this season, and he could not design one at home in London among the third locks in the city. Instead, he turned these resources into a campaign that included the first official “front” of Self-Portait: Phoebe Dynevor, i. Bridgerton cliu. Ironically, Dynevor works with the brand as it moves away Bridgerton-esque puffed sleeves, delicate lace, and crystal embellishments to a spy, striped back. Chong described it as “elegant simplicity.”
It’s no surprise to hear that Chong no longer feels for ruffles, gights, and pomp after the year we’ve been. Maybe he doesn’t have a customer either. Who wants to be balanced by a big narrow or heavy rows when we finally reappear? Chong’s approach for fall 2021 involved sharper silhouettes with just a touch of the charm on which the brand is known. A blazer dress came in a semi-gloss print, with a short, boxy suit that read sex, not silly; a sweater dress with more casual legs on sleeves with a pleated paddle and ruff cascading down the middle, and a few ivory dresses (designed by brides) were trimmed with a sleek halter neckline, or frills and one layer of trim crystals. The flared minister looked particularly new: a lighter, bouncier option instead of midi size and length of collections by 2020.
Chong was particularly excited about his jumper improvements. It’s a great time for knitwear, but his ribbed cashmere dresses with crochet trim and crystal buttons will stand out. Cut into narrow, sometimes ultra-short silhouettes, they had that weird balance of sexy, cozy, and a bit sober all at the same time.